DETAILS, FICTION AND PURE SAUCE

It is simply an emulsification—egg yolks and butter Reduce by with vinegar flavored with tarragon and shallots, that has a Chunk of black pepper. Imagine it as a unfastened mayonnaise, demanding only a lot of whisking and a cautious hand with the warmth to grasp. ... Use the sauce to steaks or burgers, asparagus or salmon. — Sam Sifton, The Big